Best sling length for anchor reddit. Nylon webbing has a slight stretch.
- Best sling length for anchor reddit. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. The best personal anchor will always be I find cordellete easier to manage for anchors where a single 120cm sling is insufficient, as you can almost always make a cordellete work. jg See full list on rei. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A designgrapher • 60 votes, 88 comments. com Sep 1, 2023 · Although double-length slings are most commonly used to extend pieces of protection while on lead to reduce rope drag, quadruple or even longer slings are sometimes used to equalize multiple protection pieces into a secure anchor. They can also be used to extend a piece of protection. My favorite part is when cleaning up an anchor, I can change the length of the PAS quickly. Dyneema webbing tends to be thinner therefore lighter. If the difference in length is larger than the amount that the short sling stretches, then all of the weight will be on the short sling and the long sling will not increase the capacity at all. Doubling it up would make it too short. Plus, getting back to the length of the sling - much of the time you'll have to use either multiple slings, or a VERY long sling in order to have a three-point anchor. Two per line-end with a sling system between them to mount the end of the line to. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done that since. I'm a beginner sport climber though, so weight is not really an issue for me at this stage. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Sometimes a sling will do a good job, sometimes working with cordellete saves you some material. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. If you want distance, you are best served with a longer sling made of light material like paracord. You're attaching your double length sling via both of your hard points using a girth hitch and then attaching that to one bolt at the anchors. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. The best solution may be to get a length of static rope and set up your anchor (ensuring that your climbing rope isn't running over an edge), but this is getting into 'you really should read a book and have proper instruction' territory. I was taught how to do an anchor on a single sling with four carabiners. Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. You're good. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. Nylon webbing has a slight stretch. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. Overall, you are generally safe using two quickdraws if your bolts are level with each other and your masterpoint isn't obstructed. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Completely agree with this. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. If like bags of any kind this sub is for you! If you have lots of backpacks, purses, wallets, etc and are ashamed to admit it this sub is for you! If like you to constantly talk about bag designs then this sub is for you! What kind of sling did you get, and for how long did you need to wear it 24/7 after surgery? Please also mention which cuff was repaired and if other repair work was included, like biceps tendon. In this article, we’ll review the need for a personal anchor system while climbing, alternative options to these products, and review each of these I like that I can use the wrist strap, and then use the same connectors to connect the camera to the sling or dual sling. A cordelette can (pseudo) equalize three anchors relatively quickly, and gives you two points to anchor off the cordelette Keeping the mounting point close to the body gives my support hand more leverage, reduces the length of sling that can tangle in things, and keeps weight out in front of the mount, so a dropped rifle tends to go barrel-down. There's a good reason people say to clove hitch in with the rope to an anchor. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. I'm new to the AR scene. The Bunny Ears is best for using with your rope, as it's a great and quick way to use the rope to anchor yourself to two points. I am working on A-Frames. Hello all, Long time lurker first time poster. Welcome to r/AR15! Share you builds, ask relevant questions, play nice etc. Really depends on the scenario. Subreddit for both professional and civilian tactical gear. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Keep the abuse of an anchor on something that is cheaper to replace. Seems like those would be awfully short if I go w/ "basket" w/ another wrap around a 1' dia. It is also the best way to stock up on low cost, expendable and customizable length sling material for emergency use What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. I'm looking to start practicing and building top rope anchors and was wondering what lengths of webbing would be handy to have to cover most… Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). I’m looking to get a sling bag, I do a bit of international travel and it seems incredibly useful. Now I only have to replace one sling every few seasons, and the added length means I get more flexibility for that one anchor as well as a few others. I will show you how to set up a simple yet tough and awesome top rope anchor. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. This article covers carabiner size, shape and gate, as well as sling length and how many quickdraws to have. Multipitch I always clove hitch the rope. With that in mind, a lighter sling tends to need a projectile with more weight in order to get good swing and distance. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. Which are the best slings and runners for crags, via ferratas & beyond? Find out everything about materials & length in our dedicated guide. I just watched the following video (that was pretty cool) and I noticed a different style of anchor, that is a sling with an overhand knot in the middle Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The camera bag megathread was a great success, thanks to all who participated! A similar thread for camera strap reviews was… First off, I have a few styles of TR anchor that I use like: steel carabiners on the end of each chain (fast, convenient), or a sliding x with limiting knots (good equalization), or maybe a double length sling with figure 8 at the bottom. I think I use around a 60cm sling which works out well. This is because the amount of force applied to each anchor point depends on the angle formed by the slings coming together. It can work if the bolts are very close together and you use a small diameter sling, like 8 mm. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. I use a double length sling and one locker for my PAS (it also incorporates my Belay device to extend the rappel and for redundancy at the anchor. Use the PAS or a runner as a rap sling, but not as a substitute for anchor-building. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Regardless of the few extra seconds it takes. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. Additional bail option to leave a cordelette. tree and would triload biners? Skip the wrap or get longer slings? Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. If there aren't bolted anchors available, you'll need pro to build your own. The home of Climbing on reddit. 5mm. You can easily store this system on your harness. Here’s everything you need to know. Nwslackline. Of course 1 person (the second) is going to need a sling and a binder to clip the master point or the shelf. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. Add some comments on why you chose your sling! Edit: Although Vickers are winning in the poll, VTAC has a lot of comments! What do you think is best - extend or not, sling or daisy chain, best backup? Why? Links to full explanations are most welcome, not that I don't trust the anonymous climbers on reddit to know what they are talking about :) Thanks in advance! Mar 31, 2016 · On a multipitch, I'd say you should be building anchors, not using a PAS to clip in to the bolts. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. no need for a purcell or PAS just girth hitch a sling from your tie in point and clip into the anchor, keep the sling weighted so you can't fall on it. Your anchor should never be shock loaded, so 11kn is well within the forces that it would take. This anchor is fine. Learn how to buy quickdraws. Edge Protection: It is essential to follow best practices for inspecting equipment, placing slings around low diameter structures, and using edge protection. Since they're just standard buckles, you can find generic version of the connector to adapt to your own strap/equipment. Sep 25, 2020 · QUICK TIPS Slings can be used for equalising multiple points of an anchor system. Sometimes that means untying it and using a figure 8 on a bite on each bolt to get the right length, but for me, having that option makes the cordellete superior to a sling for anchors without uniform spacing. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Check out some double length dynema slings to make a mini quad if anchor hangers aren’t too far apart. Working Carabiners Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. Say you have a 30m/10mm static rope. Reply reply Jun 7, 2024 · What's the best sling length? For me, the 120 cm is a bit too short. 305 votes, 96 comments. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. . However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more options as to where you could climb. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? Anchor sling length/rigging question? Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. 1. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Does anyone here have any experience with either of these? If I was using the augers, what diameter and length would work best? Any advice is appreciated. Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! I'm going to agree with the other commenters here about that knot not holding it's intended length on the sling. edit: here is another discussion about it with a bunch of different opinions. The minimum anchor diameter for Wire Slings is 12 mm or ½ in. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. However I've seen people make their anchor many other different ways. This allows you to cut the exact length of sling that you would prefer, and is the most economical way of outfitting yourself with the needed slings. The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). org says to get 25' for anchors = two approx 6' slings. I’m interested in hearing some suggestions from you guys! In addition to traveling I’d like to not break the bank on a bag, I also plan to potentially use the bag to carry concealed (obviously not on the plane) so please suggest away! Depends on the route and the rack. Sometimes a bomber anchor is just a single piece. In the United States, static anchor material (nylon slings, dyneema slings, Metolius PAS) are very common, people use them, and are fine. Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. That could cause undesired load shifting on the anchor, possibly leading to catastrophic failure. That way you don't have to lug the entire rope to the crag when you just plan on climbing. As others have said. Not too short, not too long, works on horizontal bolts and with a little adjusting, vertically offset ice screws. At most ill do 6 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, 6 slings, and a double length sling. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. total cost for the locker and the sling was maybe $15? The other L3 (who is more experienced and an assessor to boot) warned that connecting the anchor sling directly to that cowstail connector was bad practice, and that there should be an extra carabiner in between the sling and the cowstail. What is the best way to adjust that long sling to be the perfect length so that I can comfortably go into the anchor direct? Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? Aug 18, 2019 · Tying Your Own Nylon Slings It is possible to buy tubular Nylon webbing in spool lengths online or at your local climbing shop. 319K subscribers in the ar15 community. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. Lots of climbers ask me: "How can i build a top rope anchor?". Which sling do you use the most? What do you like about it? Do you only carry the essentials or a little extra? Anything you'd want to talk about, really. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Many aspects require the use of a cord or sling for releasable hitches and ascending ropes. In some situations trying to clean an anchor and retie in with only a quickdraw's length between you and the anchor would be a total pain in the ass. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. ). And yes we are scared of falling. For example, with 2 slings instead of 1, with a cordette in a quad instead of a sling, or just 2 quickdraws (is the lase one somehow unsafe?) I'm curious about There I found a quad easier and faster to setup than getting the right length with draws. The two An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Reply reply More replies DJ_Buzz • looking to get a sling but don’t know where to begin looking for a quality one. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). Don't do that. Jul 10, 2023 · Keep reading to learn about personal anchor systems and how you can incorporate them into your climbing. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. Then on the other bolt, put a locker on and clove hitch your rope onto that locker. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Just curious. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. I've noticed people mounting their sling closer to the tip of the gun by the end of the barrel, and others mounting it closer to the receiver. What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. Having multifunctional tools on long climbs will be your end goal. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't The ideal is really more about what you are working to accomplish. Popular examples of these PAS climbing safety systems include the Metolius PAS, the Petzl Connect Adjust, the Camp Swing, and the Kong Slyde. Why do you want such a long rope? Primarily for rappelling? If you don't need that much rope to build an anchor, just go with a shorter ~6-10m in 7mm cordelette rope. I assume theres pros and cons to both setups, but what would they be? Oct 29, 2023 · You can absolutely still use it without doubling it over once more, but I find that sets the master point to low for my liking. 248K subscribers in the tacticalgear community. e. Texora allows girth hitching slings around anchors (choker) per the product manual. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want I'm extremely new to climbing outdoors so it's good to see different anchor types I'm curious what the grigri is for on each of these. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. They seem pretty straight forward. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Cordelette for any self rescue scenario, load release MMO hitch, plus it’s a prussik and foot loop combo in itself. Mainly, an anchor will have a static load of you tied in to it, then a top roped follower, then the top piece should be clipped for the leader. Hey dudes, I was about to buy some new double shoulder length runners (48 in/ 120 cm), but realized I had some accessory cord (6mm monster cord from… My partner and I each carry 1x 16ft length and 1x 20 ft length. How do you rig this? I am intersted in everything from rope mgmt, managing slack in your static rope, to what know you use, and how you tie in hardware. I recently started climbing outdoors. He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). Any idea why that practice is preferable? Consider a situation when you want to set up a top rope but the best solid tree (or whatever bomber natural anchor) is like 10 meters from the edge, and you would like your master point to be close to the edge. Where is the best location to mount your rifle sling? Near the front of hand guard, or closer to the receiver. 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Edit: Building an anchor at a two-bolt station with a double-length runner takes about a The horizontal spacing between anchor points and the length of slings that you use to connect the points are critical in creating a reliable anchor. If the difference in length is significantly smaller than the amount that the slings stretch, then they can hold almost twice as much weight. 252 votes, 98 comments. Webbing, while inherently cheap Maybe if I was going super light alpine I'd just use a dyneema sling but I'm not so it works for me. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. 4 lockers, (2 in the hard points for contraversial harness setup) 1 alpine draw on a 240cm sling, 3 prussiks, (2 5mm and 1 6 or 7mm) 2 nonlockers, 1 or 2 pulleys, 1 5ft untied runner, 1 12 foot chest harness runner, 1 15ft untied runner, belay device, 1 rap ring, 1 PAS, and 1 set of texas kickers with 1 purcell extendable anchor. I think 180 cm is about the sweet spot. What length and thickness of static rope is a good starting point to build an anchor? I was thinking maybe 10m (33ft) and 11mm as it it might be rubbing up against things. /r/ManyBaggers is for folks who like all things that are bags. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. My take is: I'm fine with dyneema knots at an anchor strength-wise. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be adjusted Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. Just don't load them dynamically. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. Check your slings regularly for wear and tear. In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. The 20ft is for our anchor at the end of the pitch and the 16ft is a rescue line. Equalizing anchors using slings can get annoying really fast, and you have to carry several sling to do it. You got to be confident no what you are doing and have good arguments for your choices, no matter what they are. 38 votes, 69 comments. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. A lot less material and weighs nothing. Keep slack out of your static anchors. As your skills develop you will begin to learn self rescue. Gear guide: personal anchor systems Adjustable lanyards offer significant advantages over regular slings when you need to tether yourself to an anchor. I just have a pre rigged sling on my rack where I just have to clip the bolts and have a bomber anchor with minimal extension. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. The reasons the Bunny Ears is a good system is that it's efficient and it means that you don't have to carry an extra sling for the anchors. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. I'm curious to know what the people of this subreddit use every day. Heavier material will allow for lighter projectiles. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. What’s a Personal Anchor System? A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a piece of climbing equipment that directly connects the climber to a climbing anchor system. An equalette or cordelette (cordalette?) would have 1x 18’ Cordelette and 1x 240cm Dyneema Sling on 1x carabiner (sometimes just two cordelettes) This gives flexibility for anchor building on bolts, monolith, trees, pitons, or gear (we have it all). Can one really evaluate a cam placement by just looking at a picture? Mar 13, 2019 · One of the necessary pieces of equipment for sport climbing outside is a personal anchor system, or PAS. jywgc odux fwpnfdzr fwjtcf esb ask rstgh txkze heh hdfm