Climbing bolt types. Private guiding sessions offer personalized instruction to hone anchor building skills in diverse climbing locations. ANCHOR BOLT 10 10 x 90 mm AISI 316L stainless steel anchor bolt, with a single high adhesion expansion element, recommended for all types of rocks: medium, hard and/or compact. Most people use the word “bolt” to refer to the whole setup of bolt, hanger, and nut. In sport climbing, these are often bolts pre-installed in the rock, while in traditional climbing, they can be natural features like trees or boulders, or artificial placements like cams, nuts, or hexes. In general, bolts should be replaced by reusing & expanding the original hole. There are many different types of bolts in use at our climbing areas. Some old bolts looked great, while others have broken with a flick of the rope. For sport climbing it’s very important to have a keynose (or other clean-clipping nose) on the bolt-end carabiner. These are part threaded with 35mm of thread. Essentially using climbing equipment, either fixed or removable, to assist in Apr 6, 2021 · Sport Climbing Terms Bolt – The metal rod that is drilled, glued, or uses an expansion bolt to secure into the wall. He fell about 15 feet until his weight came onto the bolt below, which also broke. There are special workflow considerations for placing glue ins. Check the holds for cracks and chips. Perfect for beginners and seasoned climbers alike! Lower-offs and bolt belays are a hotly debated subject amongst route developers. Within the expansion bolt category, two types of bolts are commonly used: wedge bolts and sleeve bolts. There are several types of climbing bolts that can be found throughout the country, covering a wide range of uses and safety implications. How many types were there? How do… Adhesive anchors (aka “glue ins”) are an increasingly popular option for stewards who are maintaining and upgrading climbing hardware resources. Climbing is very dynamic and we have to have tools and knowledge to be able to adapt to any anchoring situation we find. Make sure you have the right type of bolts for the type of climbing hold. Their introduction in some areas led to fistfights. Oct 7, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The shaft of this bolt is wrapped with fine twine. These systems allow climbers to secure themselves to the rock face, whether it’s during a rest or at…. – „The Installation and Replacement of Climbing Bolts, a Declaration“ provides guid- ance to establish „good style“ and balanced route development so that climbing is preserved for future generations (see page 48). It allows climbers to quickly clip their rope to the wall using a quickdraw. The document titled ‘ Bolts: A guide to installing and replacing bolts on climbing routes ’ was originally published in German by the DAV. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin. The ASCA is a not-for-profit organization that provides new anchors to replace deteriorating fixed hardware used for rock climbing fall protection. Learn how to place bolts and aid climbing rivets Once you go through my guide below, you will be well-versed with the working principle of each type of anchor. They are typically fixed points in the rock where gear is placed or attached. Remember to prioritize safety, take it one step at a Mar 27, 2019 · Topher Donahue's new book, "Rock Climbing Anchors, 2nd Ed. NB. Jan 15, 2023 · Bolts forever changed climbing. This is the standard for sport climbs worldwide, but is also common at many North American trad climbing venues. Glue-ins can come as a single shaft with a welded eye on top or a continue rod. But should you? What Is A Climbing Bolt? A bolt is a metal anchor that is permanently attached to the rock. Our selection includes twist leg glue-in anchors, solid leg glue-in anchors, and more general types, like welded, staple / U-bolt glue-in anchors. Unlike screws, which are often driven directly into materials, bolts require pre-drilled holes and are usually paired with nuts to create a strong, secure joint. The two major categories are expansion bolts and glue-in bolts. Most “bolts” are actually made up of Jul 29, 2019 · The common bolt diameters used in rock climbing are 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch, with common lengths ranging from 2-1/4 inches to six inches. Bolts, anchors and belay stations are designed to be fixed to outdoor climbing venues or indoor walls when building sports climbing routes and belay stations. But the top of sport climbing routes can be confusing, and making a mistake can be fatal. There are two main categories of climbing anchors: natural and artificial. "—an update of Craig Luebben’s bestselling and beloved guide—provides comprehensive instruction for using anchors for virtually all climbing situations. We dive into the key principles of anchoring for rock climbing, and debunk some of the myths and focuses that some climbers cling to without understand the true reality of climbing anchors. But some times there are places where traditional bolt-on holds cannot be placed. The choice of bolt (fixing) type will take into account the environment, number of bolts to install and the rock type. ” EPISODE: Climbing Anchors from the Bolting Bible The Bolting Bible This is free resource by HowNOT2 and our way of contributing to the community. They allow you to prepare routes from the ground, one hook at a time. It utilizes a ball screw for mechanical advantage to pull a variety of bolt types. Oct 1, 2023 · Key Takeaways Master the art of anchor building for increased safety by understanding different types of anchors and equalizing them properly. If you find cracks or chips, do not use the hold. Generally, indoor bolts & hangers will be made from plated steel and for outdoor use, they will be made from stainless steel which has higher corrosion resistance. Each has 4 BOLT™ accessory slots & 2 universal slots. When the bolt strikes a solid surface, the twine unwinds and enlarges into a 50-foot-long rope, securely fastened to the surface the bolt struck. Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. I’ve been rebolting for 30 years, and have replaced almost 1,000 bolts. Jan 13, 2024 · Picture source: pinimg. In the case of expansion bolts, the bolt is placed into the hole and then tightened. A guidebook is a good place to start—most guidebooks have historical information about climbing development in the area, which will give you an idea of when and how the bolting was done. Are equipped with durable steel lower-off hardware and are positioned in a location that is: Easy to clip from a good climbing stance, even for shorter climbers Minimizing rope rub/drag and damage to the rock on soft rock Anchor bolts are spaced apart at least twice the length of the bolt and can be horizontally or vertically offset. Learn the types of climbing bolts and best practices to ensure a secure climbing experience. Manufactured from the best types of steel for reliability and durability, Petzl pitons meet all the needs encountered by climbers, on any type of rock. Looking for the best climbing bolting equipment? From climbing anchors to bolts to bolt hangers and quick links, The Wilderness Exchange gets you geared up for climbing adventures. Shop great deals on climbing bolting equipment for performance, comfort and safety. Dec 29, 2024 · Key Takeaways Understanding the types of rock climbing bolts (Expansion Bolts and Glue-In Bolts) and the components of a climbing bolt is essential for climbers. This is where screw on holds come into their own. This article explains how to place climbing bolts using a hand drill on a big wall. By selecting the right equipment, understanding the rock type, and following proper drilling techniques, you can ensure your climbs are both exciting and safe. Mar 20, 2025 · Introduction to Climbing Anchors Climbing anchors are critical components in ensuring the safety and stability of climbers during ascents and descents. Jan 3, 2024 · The recommended drill bit size for bolting on rock holds for indoor climbing walls is typically determined by the diameter of the bolts being used. Factors to consider when choosing the best drill for rock climbing bolts include compatibility, power, and portability. These are the strongest and lowest maintenance bolts available to climbers, but special care must be taken to ensure proper placement and longevity. The protruding piece of metal is attached to the wall by the bolt with a nut and washer. Look for stress cracks around the bolt hole and on the back where it is smooth. Aug 30, 2021 · Identifying these bolts can help you assess the risk in clipping and making that next move. Many climbs have bolted 'sport anchors' at the top. Bolting for Climbing “Stay safe whilst getting off. We pitted the two bolting options (hand and power) against each other to see which drilling method is king of the mountain. By understanding the different types of climbing holds, selecting the appropriate sizes, and installing them correctly, you'll be well on your way to creating exciting climbing routes and improving your skills. There are many ways to set up a top … These climbing holds attach to your climbing wall with a 3/8 inch bolt which screws into a t-nut and is the most common method for mounting climbing holds. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. Whether you're top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying secure. See full list on gearjunkie. Bolt protected routes are the norm on the Continent, where they are largely accepted, in the UK there are certain areas and rock types that have been bolted. As he leaned back on the bolt, however, it broke. Whether it's knots, direction of load, redundancy, no extension, or equalization, there is nuance to anchor building. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. May 28, 2021 · Adaptive Climbing Climbing for people with a variety of disabilities. Glue-in anchors are increasingly recognised as the preferred Aug 7, 2024 · Drilling rock climbing bolts is a skill that requires knowledge, precision, and respect for the climbing environment. Many of the previously used bolts were also tested to try and acertain how safe they really are. Climbing is an activity that’s practiced all over the world, and because of its popularity there are many different types of climbing that have been… Bolts We have 3/8" bolts that come in either the standard Socket Head Cap Screw or Flat Head with the taper that are most often used on low profile climbing holds. 00 The YABR is a climber designed bolt removal tool meant for pulling old, inappropriate and unsafe climbing hardware. From traditional methods that harken back to the sport’s roots to modern techniques that embrace innovation, there’s something for May 28, 2021 · Adaptive Climbing Climbing for people with a variety of disabilities. May 24, 2023 · Climbing holds are the gateway to an exhilarating climbing experience, offering endless possibilities for climbers of all levels. com Dec 8, 2023 · Fortunately, like other types of climbing hardware, climbing bolts have gotten significantly stronger and less sketchy over the years. Blue Mountains, Australia) by the installation of unsuitable bolts for the rock properties. You can divide the climbing anchors into natural climbing anchors and artificial climbing anchors (source). As the nut is tightened, the bolt expands and grips the rock, providing a secure anchor point. There's a huge variety of anchor bolts available for bolting concrete, masonry and rock. Therefore, a drill bit with a diameter slightly smaller than the bolt size is needed. Apr 23, 2014 · After climbing through some gear-protected terrain, he continued past several bolts. Sep 3, 2012 · General Information and Guidance on Bolting by Francis Haden Bolt Type Bolts used by rock climbers exist in two types; expansion bolts and glue-in, or as more commonly known; resin bolts. This scenario happens when the climber grabs the rope from below the last clipped bolt and then clips it through a higher bolt, creating a Z-shape. There are some exceptions to this: when the old placement is in rock that is poor quality, removal of the old bolt is impossible We're proud to offer our own line of high-quality yet affordable climbing bolts and anchors as part of the OPG line. Jul 9, 2019 · Gallery: Bad Bolts Club—10 Sketchy Bolt Types Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr Andrew Burr *Many of the older horizontal-logo timebombs have been replaced. Now, most climbers wouldn’t think twice about trusting their lives to one in a fall. Each item in our diverse range is personally tested or developed to ensure they meet our rigorous standards of strength, reliability, and safety. It is important to inspect any bolt before trusting it. The bolt is drilled into the rock, and the hanger and nut are then attached to the bolt. Sport climbing is the most popular form of outdoor roped climbing and is also practiced indoors in climbing gyms all over the world. For reference, the bolts on the bottom two pitches of Stellar Eclipse on Silver Star, in good granite, are 5/8x3 5 piece Rawl bolts. Extra care needs to be taken when route setting with part threaded fixings. In order to avoid corrosion, bolts should always be made of stainless steel, regardless of their type. Now that you know the list of materials and the entire building process, let’s get to decorating it…with climbing holds. They are the most common type of bolts you will find on climbing routes. May 8, 2023 · There are two main types of bolts used in bolted rock climbing: expansion bolts and glue-in bolts. A range of lengths available form 140mm to 260mm If you need longer fixings these will have to be made as a special. For a rundown of the most common climbing bolts, I’ll discuss– displacement bolts, expansion bolts, and glue-in bolts. Let’s delve into the second segment of our exploration, focusing on the diverse landscape of rock climbing bolts: In the vast tapestry of climbing hardware, understanding the nuances of different bolt types is akin to Discover the different types of climbing holds and how to use them effectively. A 1/4\” bolt loose from the walI. Fatal accidents have been caused (e. Glue-in bolts are an alternative to mechanical fasteners and consist of either stainless steel or titanium bolts that are chemically fastened to the rock. Climbing Bolt Supplies is a Hong Kong-based manufacturer & supplier of bolting equipment for route development - anchors, bolts, belay & lower-off. Bolt choice is an important decision to ensure that any bolts that are placed are done so correctly, and in a manner that will render them safe to use for parties that may follow. Properly installed bolts of stainless steel allow belay points to last reliably for years and offer climbers a helping hand when they need it. What tool you use, however, can either ease or aggravate the already-difficult task. 30KN Climbing Bolt Hanger, Stainless Steel Climbing Anchor Bolt, Rock Climbing Anchor for 10 mm / 3/8" Bolt, for Climbing Rappelling Rescue Hammock Installation $2199 FREE delivery Sat, Jun 21 on $35 of items shipped by Amazon Or fastest delivery Tomorrow, Jun 17 Feb 9, 2020 · So you're hooked on sport climbing and love the feeling of flying up bolted faces on immaculate rock. Broadly, … ASSESSING BOLTS 1. Feel strong and confident heading up and down your next wall, crag, boulder or slab. Now about 65 feet up, he clipped the third bolt he encountered, intending to hang and clean some holds. When I was learning about mountain climbing, I was a bit overwhelmed by all the tools and equipment. The most common bolt size for climbing holds is 3/8 inch (9. These bolts are appropriate for use in a variety of different environments, including bolting in Resin bolt / glue-in anchor / chemically bonded anchor are all interchangeable terms that describe the same type of fixing and the other major type of rock anchor used by climbers. The rope can be pulled free with an Interact action and a successful DC 20 Athletics check. Hangers and anchors designed for progression in caving. com In the intricate world of rock climbing, the choice of bolts is a make-or-break decision, directly impacting the safety and success of every ascent. Dec 7, 2024 · Climbing is an exhilarating activity that comes in various styles, each presenting unique challenges and experiences. A sport climber will clip a quickdraw (short sling with a carabiner on each end) to the bolt, and then clip their climbing rope to the quickdraw. Sometimes the hanger is part of the bolt Jan 1, 2024 · There is another type of climbing bolt that is tangentially germane to this study. Below is a small selection of Bad Bolt Beta from the Access Fund and the American Safe Climbing Association. A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. With the right knowledge of these types, climbers can make informed Aug 1, 2024 · Components of a Rock Climbing Anchor Anchor Points Anchor points are the foundation of any climbing anchor system. Jun 30, 2023 · Climbing anchors, whether in trad or sport scenarios, are life or death. At Climbing Bolt Supplies, we specialise in providing only the highest quality rock climbing anchors, climbing bolts and route equipping products. Screw on holds Generally most climbing holds are bolted onto the climbing surface with bolts and a threaded t-nut that is inserted into the back of the plywood panel. If you are not certain that bolts are acceptable on a particular crag then the rule would have to be don't place them without making enquiries with the BMC, MS or MI depending on the area you are in. Types of climbing anchors Many different types of rock climbing anchors are available to suit different rock types, different locations, and expected use of the bolts. Anchor systems are vital in rock climbing for the safety of climbers. Bolt materials range from zinc plated carbon steel, various qualities of stainless steel, and on to titanium. These tools are made from custom machined and anodized aluminum, and stainless steel fasteners and tubing. The ultimate climbing bolt safety guide, bolt clipping tips, how to spot and bad bolt, and what to do if you encounter one. These two types of bolts are used for attaching bolt-on climbing holds to 3/8" T-Nuts with an allen wrench like the Metolius Multi Wrench. Pick up economical multipacks of rugged and long-lasting bolt hangers, anchor bolting, sleeve anchors, top anchors and more made from durable zinc and stainless steel materials. These holds are easy to install and can be removed and repositioned anywhere on the wall as needed. 5 mm) or 10mm. Horizontally staggered anchor bolts need to be extended with Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Local experience / policy should be consulted before equipping in an unfamiliar area. Feb 5, 2023 · Screw-on climbing holds and bolt-on climbing holds are two different types of artificial climbing holds used in climbing walls. Whilst the same type of bolt may be used for either a lower-off or a bolt belay, the intended purpose of a lower-off differs from that of a multi-pitch bolt belay and regarding them separately helps to bring structure to this topic. g. [1] Alan Jarvis and Joffrey Hyman set about to do some proper testing of different bolt types in different rock types. Tightening of the bolt causes the sleeve of the bolt to expand inside the hole. Wave Bolts™ are the strongest, easiest to use, and most cost-effective glue-in rock climbing anchor available! MILWAUKEE® BOLT™ Type 2 Safety Helmets deliver better protection & more comfort. We encourage you to check out the full Access Fund article and the ASCA Resources empower yourself with the knowledge to identify and report bad bolts to the SLVCA. Aid Climbing Aid climbing is a style of climbing where one stands on or pulls up through assistance provided by devices properly attached to the rock. A description of how to set a bolted anchor at the top of a sport climb, how to get down off the climb, and how to retrieve your gear. Jan 1, 2024 · There is another type of climbing bolt that is tangentially germane to this study. Of These bolts have no way of staying in the rock except the chemical bond created by a mixture of chemicals we simply call glue. They are simply attached with wood screws. Choose between natural or artificial anchors depending on factors such as location, rock quality, and skill level. The following are our best practices when using bolts and anchors for rock climbing. Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the lead climber clips their rope —via a quickdraw —into pre-drilled in-situ bolts on the rockface for their protection as they ascend the route. Here we've excerpted his piece on how to clip into bolts on sport-climbing routes. I’ll tell you about the difference between hold types and the correct ways of plotting a climbing problem. The correct installation of rock anchors is vital to safety when installing anchors or bolts on a new climbing route. By understanding the different types of climbing, enthusiasts can select the approach that best suits their skills and personal preferences. Route History Because most of the bolt is hidden in the rock, learning about the history of the route will give you the first clues. Climbing is hazardous. There are many types of assistive devices to aid adaptive climbers in all styles of climbing. So which type to use for bolting rock climbs? Here discuss the featu Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Screw-on climbing holds are attached to the climbing surface using screws that are drilled into the wall. Aug 23, 2005 · A buddy gave me some 5/8x6, which yields a true 1/2" diameter bolt, which while very secure are a pain in the ass, since you have to bore out the hangers to accommodate the massive bolt diameter. It's nice to understand what you are clipping and trusting with your life, even if you never plan on installing or removi Learn all about rock climbing bolt types (expansion bolts, glue-ins) and current worldwide best-practice guidelines. Avoid this by always reaching for the rope right at your tie-in knot. On this page we will describe extraction and replacement methods for bolts that are commonly found while rebolting. Bolt type choices available on the market are plentiful, yet the core point is the correct bolt type truely depends upon your crag rock type (basalt, andesite, granite, conglomerate, sandstone, etc). Aug 2, 2023 · Clean climbing pioneer Jim Erickson shares the history of pitons and everything you need to know about this rarely used piece of protection. Hanger – The part you actually clip a quickdraw in to. Sport climbing is a type of climbing that uses pre-placed bolts — that are drilled into the rock — to provide protection for the climber. Expansion bolts are made up of a bolt, a hanger, and a nut. The use of any fixed anchors or equipment to protect climbers has inherent risks that are assumed entirely by the user. Jan 22, 2014 · Equipping a route with bolts, no matter the number, size, or type of hardware, is no easy task—you still have to drill a hole in solid rock. For further reference, the ASCA has this to say: “The old-style SMC bolt hanger, vintage late 1970s to early ’80s, had problems with Sep 10, 2021 · Every climber should know these three simple, yet effective anchors. Was the crag developed with a super pure old-school Expansion bolts are mechanical fixings that work by expanding & compressing against the wall of the hole drilled into the rock when route setting. We'll get to the glue part in the next chapter and installing them in the chapter after that, but for just a basic of metal there are things worth knowing. Both types of bolts require first drilling into the rock. Oct 23, 2012 · Once you master this two-bolt toprope setup, you can climb worry-free and focus on getting stronger and having fun. Rock climbing has many types and forms that are hard to explain to non-climbers, so we asked a climber to define them for us. In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of climbing protection. Sep 11, 2023 · Depending on the rock type and style of development in an area, bolts are held in place through friction within a drilled hole, an adhesive known as epoxy, or in some cases, both. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. The artificial ones have further bifurcations, as well. May 22, 2025 · In collaboration with the German Alpine Club (DAV), the UIAA Safety Commission (SafeCom) has supported the translation and publication of a new bolting guide. Jun 28, 2023 · Expansion bolts are mechanical bolts that work by expanding into the wall of a hole drilled into the rock. U-shape (or staples) are a rarely Whether you’re a climbing enthusiast or a professional in the industrial rope access industry, you’ll find an array of high-quality glue-in anchors suited for a variety of applications. Before you Start Route Setting. Jun 25, 2025 · A bolt is a type of fastener used to hold materials together, typically with a nut. Essentially using climbing equipment, either fixed or removable, to assist in If you need extra long bolts for your huge holds then you have come to the right place. Bolt-side carabiner unclipping Whether or not it’s important for your bolt-end carabiner to be clean-clipping depends on the style of climbing you are going to use it for. Jul 21, 2016 · Z-clipping will create rope drag that makes it nearly impossible to move up, as well as making the highest clipped bolt useless. Lay the climbing holds out on the floor. Our recommended method is to drill YABR (Yet Another Bolt Remover) $275. Sport Anchors – Part 1 of 4 – Introduction These articles about sport climbing anchors are part of the book - Sport Climbing Basics. How do you set up the right sport climbing anchors for a safe top-rope? And, how do you clean the gear off the anchor afterwards? You often have to be comfortable untying the rope from your harness in Sep 30, 2013 · This item: Escape Climbing 100 Pack Screw-In T-Nuts | Durable Steel Hardware for Rock Climbing Holds | Easy Installation with Screws Included Hangers, bolts and glue-in bolts are made of stainless steel for durability and corrosion resistance. They serve as connection points between the climber and the rock or other surfaces being climbed. Knowing the difference can save your life. Jun 13, 2013 · Here is a breakdown of 3 common ASTM bolts of assembly hardware used in the utility industry, A325, A394 and A193-B7. Mar 20, 2023 · Discover the safety of climbing bolts with this guide. Oct 25, 2022 · In rock climbing terms, a sport climbing route refers to a route that’s protected by bolts that are permanently sunk into the rock. Dec 5, 2021 · In the previous guide to this three-part series, I discussed the general idea and requirements to make a DIY rock climbing wall at home (indoor or outdoor). grqrjq apke ybagt lsjokr lqpzjx wqirnx wlgrlp qml vni xbwn