Hangboarding for hypertrophy benefits reddit. This is essentially Kris Hampton's setup for hangboarding.

Hangboarding for hypertrophy benefits reddit. Sure it trains a lot of muscles, but does it train any of them effectively? No. The core idea was this: she argued strength was purely a nervous system thing, and that muscle hypertrophy was purely an aesthetic thing. However, on the whole, the advantage you get from working in the hypertrophy range isn’t nearly as big as people seem to think; maybe a ~10-15% advantage per unit of effort invested at most. For hypertrophy, you're probably better off doing bar rolls with a barbell than hanging finger rolls. Research studies have documented what thousands of recreational and pro climbers have discovered at home—hangboard training works! Three brief training sessions per week, for four weeks, will yield a noticeable increase in finger strength, especially in those new to hangboard training. For hypertrophy? it's like doing power cleans for hypertrophy. Looking at the logs, 3 My blueprint would be staying between hypertrophy and max (like 8x 10s /2 min) for 8 weeks, then dipping into true max (7s) for 4 weeks, restart. Maybe I'll sit down and finish up this week. 4 types of hangboarding protocols (just for clarity): Max hangs – as much weight as you can, lots of rest between reps, few reps each session (example: 7 seconds on, 2 minutes rest, 5 sets, 90% of max weight) – lots of rest between days. Hangboarding once a week won't hurt for sure though, just 5 sets of 10s at 80% effort, focusing on maintaining good half crimp form. The hardest thing about hangboarding for beginners is to not get overconfident and start going to smaller edges and adding weight after a couple of sessions. I've been actively hangboarding for about 8 years now and of course, I started off with the traditional 7-3 repeaters protocol. This is most effectively accomplished by increase the weight used. This is a slow process (happening over the course of years), so hypertrophic gains shouldn't come after 2 weeks. I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors). hangboarding weights - what are your weighted numbers? Do they correlate with each other? Please also include climbing level and bodyweight. Hangboarding is good because it definitely stresses your wrist in a light, controllable way so that it can get used to the feel of climbing. Also Training full body daily vs 3x per week, which gives better results in the long term *FOR YOU*? Repeaters and max hang analysis for strength and hypertrophy (ft. Recently I’ve noticed in my climbing that I tend to struggle with tiny holds, which is probably because I usually hangboard 20 mm edges with added weight with a few different grips. Nov 21, 2022 · In Part 1 of this article, we outlined the most important building blocks of a structured hangboard session, talking about everything from hold size and grip type selection to why increasing training load is not just about increasing the ‘intensity’ of your sessions. I actually think hangboarding is safer than just climbing even for new climbers because the loads are very controlled unlike real climbing. I've been adding isometrics and the difference on a workout-to-workout basis has been ridiculous. By isolating and targeting the finger flexors and extensors, climbers can develop stronger fingers, allowing them to hold onto small holds and perform challenging moves with greater ease. Its wrong to call it "Oxidative stress hypertrophy". I personally take 2 days off after hangboarding, but that's time my fingers need to recover, my upper body doesn't need so much rest. But there's another world where isometric exercises are the norm, and I don't understand why. You're much better doing other supplemental work, like hangboarding, like campus boarding, like various core exercises, like ring work, like H. 1 you increase your recruitment by pulling at your max 2 you work on your forearm hypertrophy with repeated stimulus 3 you minimize the risk of injury by constantly keeping your feet on the ground. Has anyone here played around much with the number of reps/hang time/rest time used during a hangboarding session? I'm wondering whether there are specific choices for timing that are better for bouldering/power. That said, I agree that hypertrophy should not be the goal. When the gyms where closed, I started Hangboarding. T. It is worth noting I will be hangboarding twice a week during this time. Ok, I finally got The Rock Climber's Training Manual and read through most of it. Both are good for strength, either way. Of season you could add some more hypertrophy work either on wall or hangboard. Also now is probably a good time to repost this. I'd recommend taking it serious at first then gradually moving into power/campus work but continuing to climb intermittently. Hard bouldering with finger-intensive holds basically does the same thing as repeaters. I’m taller and a bit heavier than most climbers at 6’4” and 195lbs, so have identified finger strength to weight as a weakness (one of many to work on). One way to program is to go relatively high rep and perform them after a hangboard routine. I'm not quite sure of the long term benefits if hypertrophy isn't maximized though. Perhaps a lower volume, moderate density style repeater everyday could be effective (say 3 sets everyday rather than 6 sets every other day). So getting past that aspect, what you all think? Light hangboarding everyday for prehab? In the rockprodigy program the Hangboard is used for 'Hypertrophy' - meaning increasing the mass of your forearm muscle. However this prolonged training stimulus will inevitably produce some hypertrophy which will further increase your neural gains over time. I have been hangboarding for a little bit, mostly for half crimp grip (7s on 3s off for 10 reps, etc. I continued to improve for a long time using the linear approach, just increasing the loads. The general consensus is that beginners should avoid Hangboard This is essentially Kris Hampton's setup for hangboarding. Im more focused on bodybuilding. For natural lifters who have established a solid base of strength (intermediate level or beyond), what is the best approach for hypertrophy? I've read lots of different approaches regarding frequency, volume, and intensity. I saw a videon with Magnus where he showed how he trained, and it was a lot of crimping. No hang vs. Therefore you are less likely to get injured. On a day you're very tired, and weaker from a training session the previous day, that's unlikely to happen. Maybe one hangboard workout before your volume session, and one before or after your social climbing session? Hopefully with a couple of days off in between. Heavy bar roll eccentrics would be more effective for hypertrophy than finger rolls, I think. Does r/climbharder have a preference between hangboarding before vs. ). I. I've been meaning to review his setup for a few months (lol). So, I'm curious as to why this approach isn't recommended for grip training using a NoHang device (such as the Tension Block). If you had to narrow on two supplemental excercises to create gains in the forearms what would they be. I come from a weightlifting background, and like many others, I've experienced the benefits of progressive overload training. Climbers kinda need strong fingers. an hour a week once a week I'd break it into 2-3 workouts, 20-30 minutes each, instead of one 60-minute workout. Volume is what is needed for hypertrophy. I usually climb for a few hours then do a bodyweight workout with rings. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. To fit this into my climbing routine I do normally which is two days on and one day off, I used the hangboarding as a warm up to board climbing on my small home wall, which is a 45 degrere woody thats 6ft by 9ft. Then I repeat, so hangboard, lift, rest Moonboard as a hangboard: my experience gaining finger strength I've been climbing for roughly three years now, and in that time I've never done any properly regimented hangboarding. Finger strength is, perhaps, the only aspect of climbing fitness better trained off the wall rather than on, and yet this doesn’t mean that hangboarding will always be good for your climbing. That seems like a useful form of training because it seems like a solid stretch and the stretch seems to be a very potent stimulus for growth My forearm is a bit of a priority. Edit addition: tacking hangs onto the end of your session is probably a waste of time. Background: I've been climbing twice a week since 2019 - now around v4-v6 (overhang v slab) indoors. Started adding in some minimal hang boarding, prior to 129 votes, 79 comments. I see a lot of people, both here and in real life, looking to start hangboarding but feeling too… Hangboarding over the past 2 months has definitely improved my finger strength though. I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. That is the world of core exercises. If the intensity of the finger rolls or hangboard is heavy enough it's mostly neurological adaptations. How much this applies to the wall is a different story altogether though. " Medical professionals use "Myofibrillar, muscle, hypertrophy" for the results of following a "Training for strength" routine. This might mean slightly less than bodyweight to begin with, so you can use a band to offset some weight. Both of them work the muscles and tendons. Totally agree, people on Reddit don't know the difference between hypertrophy and strength, and they end up doing a hybrid, wondering why they don't grow bigger, especially when they're doing minimalist programs with low volume. The first rule of hangboarding is don't get injured on the hangboard. May 15, 2023 · Hangboarding involves an isometric contraction of all sorts of muscles, most notably the finger flexor muscles in our forearms. The argument is more "hangboarding is unnecessary (and occasionally detrimental) to new climbers because all the positive adaptations of hangboarding can be induced by thoughtfully organizing a climbing routine on the wall". For example, I've seen people advocating the work of Mike Matthews. So repeaters with added weight and max hangs are going to do it anyway. This will make you stronger for sure but isn’t exactly the recipe for bigger. I don't think thoughtful, well-read people are arguing that hangboarding is inherently injurious to new climbers. it's end of the day micro-trauma without benefits. Goldilocks problem). That said real climb is better if it is an option for you if you can get access because climbing is such a skill sport and some relatively weak people can climb some of the highest grades with incredible To see gains from hangboarding, you have to push yourself past your limit. forgot to mention, no-hang with pinch blocks. Jan 9, 2025 · Hangboarding is only useful as a supplement for developing finger strength when projecting, it isnt exercise or fun on its own. Is there a certain grip I should be using to maximize friction on these tiny holds? More It might make sense to include some heavy finger rolls (which you can do with dumbbells if you have heavy enough weight) to induce hypertrophy in these muscles. Good question would be though: do you need hangboarding? Is fingerstrength a weakness currently? What's an example of a simple hang board routine (< 10-15 mins, supports progressive difficulty, no periodisation) that is a good warm-up before climbing? Everything I try ends up being too hard or too easy (i. e. I'm leaning toward plate pinches and heavy finger rolls but am open to other ideas and happy to buy any small devices if you think there's a better way to train pinch strength and experience gains. Seems to be a good way to introduce and learn some hangboarding but I'm still a beginner so what do I know! I am slightly confused on what this is for tbh. To hang—or not to hang—is a question of timing, in both the Reading through Beastmaking I noticed that Ned makes a distinction between max hangs and long max hangs. and thats not even including things that arent finger related which is a myriad of things which can bump you up several grades. The single most important factor to increase hypertrophy is progressive overload, which refers to increasing the amounts of stress placed upon the body over time. Hey Folks, I've been climbing for a year and just purchased a No Hang Device. Hangboard to make your fingers strong rather than make them Yea, I'm talking about switching between endurance, hypertrophy, strength, and power. However when we talk about hangboarding we almost exclusively talk about edge depth as the only parameter determining the amount of weight one can hang. For example, hangboarding protocols normally call for a relatively short amount of hang time but at a high weight. Hangboarding isnt climbing. This is not strictly correct. Oxidative stress is not hypertrophy, it is a stimuli that causes hypertrophy of at least 2 different components of the muscle. Would I campus and hangboard to warmup or after everything? Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment the_birds_and_bees • I've been hangboarding on and off for about 3 years now, and after a winter of hard bouldering, I have a little tweak in a finger. . So they can be one Meh, I don't think they're good for hypertrophy or grip strength. I would sooner suggest you look into building a home spray wall or getting a full blown training board so you can actually climb without having to drive so far Jan 26, 2024 · One of the primary benefits of Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is improved finger strength. Since all his metrics were max strength it would be interesting to have a pro powerlifter try light squatting every day and see what happens as a comparison. I went to the 25lbs plate (for no good reason, mind you) and couldn't do a full . I boulder for 5 to 10 Eventually, similarly to other strength sports, you will require a certain level of intensity to keep advancing strength wise (speaking of "strength" in the precise term), which is when something like hangboarding suddenly has its benefits outweigh its "costs". I'd guess most intermediate climbers should completely avoid it, including while climbing. It started when I decided I needed to graduate on weighted pull-ups. after a bouldering session? My opinion is that you should boulder before hangboarding because hangboarding allows you to be very precise about the amount of time / duration / intensity. First, hangboarding doesn’t have much knowledge around it. Hangboarding for extremely weak fingers - large edge, pulley system or no-hangs? I'm a 30-something year old man. I'm preparing for a bouldering trip and just started a hangboarding phase. Now that I can go bouldering again I want to climb at least three times per week but also want to do max hangs once or twice per week. What is your opinion on this? Hypertrophy training of the muscles during the offseason seems to me like the better mechanic for long term improvement. Of course, it could be an attempt to sell his collagen supplement, but I am taking collagen before I climb the last few weeks anyway. I do 6s on, 4s off for reps. The “hypertrophy range” of roughly 6-15 reps per set may produce slightly better results per unit of time invested than low rep and high rep work. Power Company Podcast and Steve Maisch) The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago, and I wanted to write up something on it. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. My I would guess it's a decent exercise for forearm hypertrophy which can be beneficial to long term strength (so you would want to do this at the start of your periodization). The authors seem a little Dave says two days per week of hangboarding is the minimum to make any gains. If you only kept it in a brace for 2 months, I'd be concerned about reoccurring injuries. An hour on a hangboard is a lot. Hangboarding requires a lot of rest time. I tested my max The positives of isometric hangboarding is that the strength gains apply very well to climbing since it replicates it so closely, the downside is that we may have to train different grip types separately. I've been bouldering ~3 times per week for ~2 years and I cannot hang 20mm bodyweight in half-crimp (or barely hang it for like 2 seconds on a good day). I plan to start an entry level hangboard routine, and as a beginning my plan is to start with 2 sessions a week. If you’re looking for structural adaptations in the form of muscle growth you probably want more volume than 7/53 protocol. The article is confusing primarily because it mixes up hypertrophy and stimuli for hypertrophy. In terms of programming I'm doing them at the end of my hangboarding Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. The downsides here would be that the overall load may become too high and result in injury if you're not being careful. His approach seems to be low I too went through a phase of strict hangboarding + weight loss back in 2017, and my numbers (both bodyweight and finger strength) are quite similar to yours. I've tried it, but I could never commit to it. I posted a video of these powerlifters who said the science backed that volume is all that matters for hypertrophy which is the best way to get stronger - by increasing cross sectional area of muscle. I believe I might be going about grip training in the wrong manner. I’ve been training for purely hypertrophy (never below 5 reps, plenty of exercises over the years) for years but noticed a few of the natural bodybuilders on YT like Alex Leonidas train more in a powerbuilder style with max effort singles, etc. if anything it just digs you a deeper recovery hole to climb out of. Details may vary depending on training age. I've seen this strange idea float around a few times that "strength is neural. Many of the most highly regarded coaches provide conflicting approaches. I should start by saying I'm not terribly worried about getting specific numbers, after all this is just hangboarding but it does raise some questions on training as a whole and other than that not seeing any progress is quite discouraging. My question is if it is best to Hangboard on non-climbing days or before/after climbing. Grips to promote hypertrophy will not do that, nor will they help with power, or power endurance. It's safer to hangboard with the full crimp than to habitually climb with it, simply because hangboarding is much more controlled. But generally speaking, yes, the full crimp is really bad for you if you aren't conditioned for it. I had hit my goal reps with 10lbs and had no 5lbs plates at home, so I had to choose between adding another 10lbs or jumping right to a 25lbs plate. Last point: This is why hangboarding is an interesting phenomenon. RDLs and good mornings are way more effective for hamstring/posterior chain. " Really curious about where that comes from and if there's any truth to it, and if it changes anything to how we train. I think they're good for gymnasts and calisthenic people as an endurance and mental thing. Im a fan of climbing stuff but not a rock climber. Here's how to get started. Finger coordination on small holds, skin, active tension on muscle vs passive, more power and contact strength. Yves gravelle has luck with it. Hangboarding is always the first exercise I do on climbing days if I plan on hangboarding. I use a modified version of the RCTM's intermediate. A good base training tenplate would be something like 9 weeks in the 10s / 2 min 20 mm range (something between max and hypertrophy) and then 3 weeks in a true max or min edge range. Something that theoretically is relatively low risk-- results in anecdote after anecdote after anecdote in practice of people getting hurt. Do the benefits of bodyweight training outweigh the benefits of low rep weight training? Another question: is training each exercise just once a week enough to keep getting stronger? I ask this because I'm adding strength training to the intensive bouldering (and sometimes hangboarding) days, using a push/pull split. This program focuses mostly on ligaments and tendons but there are likely other downstream effects. Just watched this Eric Horst video, where he explains the benefits of hangboarding everyday. Hangboarding is a skill and if someone is on and off it then there are some gains to be maxed out there. Its a lot more similar to a typical gym hypertrophy stimulus because it's a concentric/eccentric exercise. So I lift the day after hangboarding, and take a full rest day after that. Hangboarding before climbing working up till I can hang on 20mm for 15 seconds without pain at all a few times. I climb in a variety of styles + project a lot at my physical limit. According to the book, 5-15s max hangs are great for neuromuscular recruitment but don't provide as much stimulus to strength as 20s "long" max hangs. They do recommend some hangboarding, even for people in their first few years of climbing, but only during certain periods of the training cycle, and definitely not four times a week on top of regular climbing. a lot. 6/6 or 7/13 repeaters with 6-10 reps per set at 60-80% MVC would put you in a good zone for triggering hypertrophy. It's really just a means to further train strength. Hangboarding has been a great supplement. So for about 3 months I've hanged twice a week, one repeaters session and one max hangs. I've been following the intermediate Eva Lopez hangboarding routine that is two days per week and put big emphasis on resting at least 48 hours between sessions. You might feel a lot stronger but you still need to prioritize your health. I started hangboarding again, and after two sessions the tweak is pretty much gone. Hypertrophy does have a lot of overlap with strength, and plateaus in strength gains usually call for a hypertrophy phase in training, so I think it's something worth keeping in mind. The hardest stuff goes first, not including the warm-up, to lower chance of injury and to have a a higher quality workout (more rested). Then I warm up on easy climbs and gradually move up in grades. Instead of buying a pull up bar, can I use a hangboard for regular pull ups and later on use the hangboard for more intensive training? Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Sure a few studies and methods that have been used with success, but it’s a combo of sport specificity, ligament, tendon, muscular, and neural adaptations. Tl;Dr to progress FAST do max weighted no-hang repeaters. staying just below, and always completing reps I'm wondering what you all think will yield to better results when hangboarding. After doing finger curls with my forearm vertical for a while, I recently did a cycle of horizontal finger curl and felt like this improved my sloper and pinching strength a lot so I figured this could be interesting or useful to others, especially if you've been doing one kind to maybe consider switching things up. I would put whatever is more important to you first. I tried to find some more information on the topic, but it seems like most protocols recommend 5-10s hangs and longer hangs are not often So to clarify it even more; if you keep on hangboarding for a long period of time and avoid accommodation by varying the stimulus you will keep progressing by way of (mainly) neural adaptations. Mar 1, 2022 · Hangboard training is one of the most time-efficient ways to improve finger strength. The routine also coincided with the start of the outdoor climbing season, so I would do the routine as a warm up before going out climbing. diff being you can start with less than bw. This is best for recruitment and nervous system. Some of this might be too focused on hangboarding for hangboarding's sake; obviously hangboarding is only as good as it benefits your climbing. For people who are newer to hangboarding, would it be better to do max hangs or repeaters starting off? EDIT: Sorry. So you are already leaning towards hypertrophy. The average natural men can expect, assuming they do most things right, to gain between 40-50 pounds of muscle mass in his training journey. Based on some quick youtube research (emil abrahamsson, stefano ghisolfi), it seems that no hang numbers tend to be higher than hangboard numbers. Sometimes people refer to the rounding of the edge as well, where the consensus seems to be that rounded edges are making the "effective depth" less, and thus harder to hang from compared to a Hangboarding: Recruitment and hypertrophy, most controlled loading Campusing: Recruitment, contact strength, pulling power of the arms, extreme loading, Moonboard: Recruitment, body tension, pulling power, contact strength, in between campus and hangboard for loading. Hypertrophy into maximum into minimum edge built to follow along with the volume, strength, power program. Once my fingers are all the way better, I may consider doing some type of light/heavy or DUP for finger rolls though. To medical professionals the results of following a "Training for hypertrophy" routine is called "Sarcoplasmic, muscle, hypertrophy. When would I incorporate campus and hangboarding into my routine. So do you need hypertrophy training? It depends on what constitutes hypertrophy training, but in general strength training is going to give you all the hypertrophy you need. , like bouldering (if you're a route climber), like many other tools, rather than squeezing a grip. Is it okay to dedicate one session a week for hypertrophy and the other for recruitment? Or am I better off doing a few weeks of purely one kind of hangboarding and then the other? If so - which kind is better to start with for the first few weeks? My experience is that if people can't prove that hangboarding causes injury, they just try to come up with other reasons why people shouldn't hangboard, which sounds a lot more like people just trying to feel right about what they already believed, rather than actually engaging with the fact that hangboarding doesn't cause injuries. If you want grip strength do heavy farmer walks, use those grip things for dumbells, and start ripping stuff that is hard to rip. Is this true for you? Thanks in advance! 3 points on this Has anyone tried/benefitted from a cycle of no-hangs or hangboarding based on reps, instead of the usual 7 or 10 second hangs? Asides from Yves being a genetic monster, could tendons respond well to this? The current consensus is that repeaters are better than max hangs for strength due to the hypertrophy gained from repeaters. I also got a DXA scan before and after my diet too, to track how much fat/lean mass I lost on a carb-cycling diet. For context if you're not going to watch, Hooper believes that Emil and his brother likely had insignificant hypertrophy, strength (max CNS recruitment), or recovery gains. 4 to 6 weeks is the golden zone and a lot of the literature supports that, but up to 8 weeks is okay for hypertrophy imo. Very curious how they correlate. Under the right conditions, that isometric contraction can cause our muscles to adapt by increasing in sizeaka, hypertrophy. Hi all. Hangboarding (Repeaters): Adding weight that causes me to fail reps vs. Repeaters are definitely not “for endurance”. I just found it too boring! My current finger strength metrics are: (I weigh 65kg - 179cm) I do think the 5 rep sets would work well from some hypertrophy + recruitment which may bring up maximal hand strength faster though. Steven Low (Author of Overcoming Gravity and is also a decently accomplished climber) has an article about forearm hypertrophy and wrist conditioning relating to climbing strength. I noticed that the Anderson brothers recommend hangboarding for rehab but seem to be very light on how to actual do this Does anyone have any experience doing this and a recommended protocol? I assume start stupid light with like most of your body weight removed with a pulley system and do repeaters? Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? Thought I'd post this here to open a thread on people's thoughts. It's likely that any short term gains are more related to getting used to the specific exercise. of course you can introduce negative weight for hanging, but that's extra steps. Aug 22, 2022 · Ok, first things first: any climber who wants to climb as hard as their genetic potential will allow needs to hangboard at some point. Repeaters do a good job at representing the repetitions you might do doing say, pull-ups. This way you're targeting general hypertrophy, but still getting your hangboarding in. training your fingers to exhaustion doesn't build additional finger strength. Keep in mind that hangboarding is not the definitive and ultimate way to push up your grade because every hangboard routine is always repetitive and lacks technical and problem solving aspects that are very important for climbing performance. To make story short, I'm not progressing. Hangboarding tends to increase neurological adaptations whereas finger rolls are going to be muscular so as long as you don’t overdo it, you’ll be fine. I’ve found that I can hang on 10 mm pretty easily but anything less seems to be way more about friction than strength. And a few advocates of max hangs have switched over to repeaters for this reason. sfthdx milqw cqldi cplp zcr iczuk bimrkv omud znvf rict