Repeaters vs max hangs. I don't think that's excessive volume, and that screwed my elbows very quickly, whereas I can do long stints (throughout the year really) of hangs, and seems to not hurt them. For max hangs you should ideally find your absolute max and then back off by 5-10 pounds, maybe even more since you’re relatively inexperienced with them. Tyler Nelson's Density Hangs long-duration isometrics can help you improve the quality of your tendons and climbing! Jan 11, 2024 · With hangboard repeaters, you perform a series of hangs, each separated by a very short rest. Sep 21, 2020 · 52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. • Some Finger Training Instructional Videos • Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone Looking for the most efficient routine to build finger strength. 1 Maximal hang set consisting of six 10-second hangs, with a 2-4 minute rests between each. I tested my max weighted hang at +50lbs (126% body weight) prior to consistent fingerboard work. g. Mar 14, 2018 · Comparing the effects on maximal grip strength of an 8-week Maximal Dead-hangs training program (MAXHANGS_MAXHANGS) with an Intermittent Dead-hangs one (INTHANGS_INTHANGS) and a third that combined Maximal and Intermittent Dead-hangs (MAXHANGS_INTHANGS). Oct 7, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Should not be getting pumped, but the focus should be on maximal effort, so finish when you can no longer maintain power or velocity of movements. No problems with elbows then. Lattice 20mm edge in half-crimp position. And then on your strength day do max hangs, max pulls, and other strength or lower based movements. Most people are injured when they get to movements that are unfamiliar to them, or they blow off holds unexpectedly, or when fatigued. Alternating between a repeater and max hang protocol, in theory, is to promote hypertrophy (repeaters) and then allow recruitment (max hangs). On-the-wall "compounds" vs off-the-wall "isolation" - To borrow an analogy from strength training, on the wall climbing is similar to compound movements in that they work many things at once: skill, body strength, hand strength, and many other components at once. I can tell you that max strength (anaerobic alactic) is a very different energy system to density hangs (possibly aerobic?), So require specific training. Lately I have been considering switching my hangboard protocol (I've been on a repeater protocol pretty much every training season for many years now) to max hangs. This is why there is some debate whether repeaters are better in the long run than max hangs. Dec 17, 2021 · One – Repeaters: Complete eight hangs, resting between hangs for two to five minutes. Int Hangs vs. Hangboarding is a versatile training method that can be tailored to fit individual needs and goals. Any experiences, any good, worthwhile etc or just do max hangs or max hangs and density hangs? Any help much appreciated. 6 weeks of minimum edge, 5 weeks of max hangs, 8 weeks of repeaters and repeat) applies continual varied stimulus to your physiology and is a sure-fire way to keep improving, rather than plateauing after your 10th week of max hangs. To me the density hangs feel much more like a problem where I have several strenuous moves all in a row on one side. hangs deliver zero pump across any/all sets. Logged Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. – Hang for 7-10 seconds, the minuscule hold you can. Repeaters should deliver a pump towards the end of a set, while max. Ditto for repeaters vs max hangs (though my fingers can't take many repeaters nowadays so I do far less of them than I'd like). To me they do not feel like repeaters. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 1:05:20 – How often should you use BFR? 1:07:03 – Repeaters vs. The ideal size edge for weighted hangs is around three-quarters the length of your first finger pad (index finger). Reps are typically 30-60 seconds in duration and repeated for 4-8 sets depending on the individual. I wanted to roughly follow the Anderson hangs routine. Here is a link Jan 26, 2024 · Sounds dumb, but for max hangs its helpful to go all out. The time you hang, the time you rest, the number of reps, the number of sets, and the rest period between sets are all customizable. Max hangs = higher intensity = more likely to injure when fatigued. It's been interesting, however, to read about pros/cons of one-armed hangs from Peter Beal and Monomaniac. I learned this after spending about 18 months doing max hangs consistently interspersed with 2-3 week breaks ever couple of months, and tracking my results. Lower intensity than max hangs but probably still in the 70-90% range that is best for strength and hypertrophy long term. May 23, 2024 · A few different hangboard workouts are: Max Hangs: These will help you hang on to smaller edges longer. I've always done repeaters hanging on a board with an appropriate amount of weight to get the right hang time. Jul 5, 2018 · • Why do intermittent dead hangs? • Comparison on the effects on finger endurance of Max Hangs vs. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, incorporating hangboarding into your training routine can bring about significant improvements in your climbing abilities. Photo: Javipec. Also, what’s the difference between this and Dec 29, 2010 · Hard to compare load intensity of pulls vs. Reading through Beastmaking I noticed that Ned makes a distinction between max hangs and long max hangs. between sets and 10 sec. not that this is the wrong thing to do but I think the reasoning behind the switch is specious. My sport climbing is normally I focused on repeaters and my 20mm max hangs increased from ~145lbs for 5 seconds in January 2024 to ~169lbs for 4 seconds May 2024. hangs, but I figured the "equivalent" of doing a max hang of 7 seconds was pull ups with enough weight that I can manage 4-5. Feb 4, 2019 · One week they’ve done 2 sessions of max hangs, the next week it’s heavy finger curls and the next it’s campus boarding. Most overuse occurs when intensity is too high with associated volume. With each of these you’d obviously be working on harder crimp climbs, max hangs, and repeaters over time as well to elicit the hand strength improvements. 10-15 moves) or by doing a bunch of 7B+-7C+s than by trying super hard moves for sessions on end. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in sport climbers? Very interesting topic - looking forward to the discussion. I have not had good experiences with standard 7/3 repeaters so I was gonna try concentric exercises combined with heavy repeaters (5x6/10). Feb 11, 2021 · A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground Jul 26, 2021 · Dr. max hangs, and the four-burner stove 54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals 56:53 – “Three steps forward one step back. Ideally, failure will occur on the final hang This method works well for either weighted or unweighted hangs, though is optimal for weighted hangs. It’s basically lifting weight of the ground that’s tied to an edge is some sort. This way, you can quickly determine the correct loads for typical hangboard training routines such as Repeaters, MaxHangs, or Density Hangs. They could use repeaters and moon if they want to preserve power when training for a longer and/or pumpy project. According to the book, 5-15s max hangs are great for neuromuscular recruitment but don't provide as much stimulus to strength as 20s "long" max hangs. The beauty of “max hang” protocols is that you increase intensity by adding weight rather than using smaller holds—this makes for less skin pain and little risk of dry-firing. 3 sets, with 2 minutes rest in between. Apr 24, 2020 · 20-minute warmup consisting of some easy static hangs on jugs, and progressive pullups on increasingly smaller holds. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training 1:12:15 – Why is BRF useful as a short term recovery tool? 1:15:02 – Using BRF prior to your sessions, and for warming up for hard climbing 1:18:31 – Finger training doesn’t need to be complicated 1:20:09 – Density hangs Max hangs If you only did repeaters, you would see significant gains in your grip strength. I have subsequently executed a block of 90% max hangs (~9 sessions over 9 weeks) and a block of 80% repeaters (4 sessions over a few weeks). Allow yourself approximately 3 minutes of rest before moving on to the next repetition. Complete this session after at least 24 hours of rest. Mar 25, 2013 · I did my first hangboard cycle this winter using the Anderson brothers repeaters exercises -- two-armed hangs, 7s on 3s off increasing weight decreasing grips per set, three sets per grip, five grips, etc. In any case, theoretically if a strength program addressed your weaknesses you can keep improving with volume or even minimal Max Hangs and Repeaters in the Same Session? I just finished 8 weeks of max hangs and the minimal edge protocol and I managed to get a stronger max! Now i am moving onto an endurance cycle and I was wondering if it is efficient to start a session with max hangs, and then at the end of the session do the Crimpd app’s 7:3 repeater @80%. Max hangs should give you better results in the time frame you mentioned. However, this may be offset depending on the amount of hard (er) climbing that one does. Basically, repeaters gives significantly more volume likely leading toward more hypertrophy. But is 6 weeks of repeaters, 4 weeks of max hangs then proceed by 4 weeks of pure campusing be a bad idea? Nov 7, 2019 · In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. May 23, 2018 · It reads like this: “Perform 2 sets of dead hangs on the smallest edge that would allow you to hang for 15 seconds max, but do just 12 to keep a margin of 3 seconds; rest 3 minutes between sets”. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training 1:12:15 – Why is BRF useful as a short-term recovery tool? 1:15:02 – Using BRF prior to your sessions, and for warming up for hard climbing 1:18:31 – Finger training doesn’t need to be complicated Generally speaking, repeaters get much more time under tension for adaptation than max hangs which if you're doing like 3-6 max hangs of 7-10s you're getting around 30-60s at most vs usually 3-4 minutes under for repeaters. g CWP max hangs or possibly Eva Lopez style hangs). The two schemes [repeaters vs. Now I'm trying to decide between finger curls with a dumbbell, which seems to be uncommon but relatively established, and no hang crimp-ups, by which I mean no hanging with In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. I'll post an update in about 4-6 weeks after a few runs at max hangs and continued training. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training 1:12:15 – Why is BRF useful as a short-term recovery tool? 1:15:02 – Using BRF prior to your sessions, and for warming up for hard climbing 1:18:31 – Finger training doesn’t need to be complicated I’ve considered moving to repeaters in early fall to get my arms in the game for routes, but haven’t decided yet. • Some Finger Training Instructional Videos • Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone Nov 10, 2022 · In addition, there is a whole host of “methods” to use for hangboard sessions such as repeaters, max hangs or long duration hangs—all of which have their time and place. There's always the issue about repeaters vs max hangs. Anderson style repeaters with kg) with "peak" phases (e. Personally, I found that after about 4-6 weeks of max hangs, my gains basically stopped and leveled out. Jan 5, 2022 · Moreover, you can run the test on any edge between 5 – 35 mm and automatically recalculate the result to any other edge depth. I’ve been seeing these “no hangs”lately on social media and what not. 51:40 – Decreasing edge size vs. Repeaters are TUT, max hangs with proper (2-3min) rests are actual max hangs. All on what I believe is an 18mm edge. While repeaters will give you results over a longer period of time. So max hangs plus recruitment hangs or hangboard campusing. adding load 52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. Rest 2 min. This provides new stimulation for the muscles and tendons, and staves off a plateau. Aug 12, 2020 · Discover a hangboard routine meant to properly warm you up and build your strength, while preparing you to climb later that same day. Jul 26, 2021 · 1:07:03 – Repeaters vs. Traning MaxHangs MED on Transgression board. A 20-30% increase in the number of reps from workout 1 to workout 8/10, that is a good result. I was wondering if anyone has any experiencing with simply doing longer hangs in order to promote forearm hypertrophy? The consensus seems to be that a 2 second hang is roughly equivalent to one rep and so a 10 second max hang is pretty solid for training strength. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. Pick one thing, probably density hangs or repeaters, then stick to that for 10-12 sessions. I can't really see any compelling reason to make this your only training, given you can easily do some other routine of Max Hangs/Repeaters/Foot-on-Campusing/WhateverFloatsYourBoat alongside it. The goal with this protocol is to perform a set of 10-second hangs, each of which takes you close to failure. I cannot necessarily describe why in a physiological sense, but in the later sets of repeaters there is a much faster onset of lactate buildup. high rest volume is probably 10x less important than eating well and getting good sleep. Support the PodcastBecome a trueHey, I want to get into a few weeks of finger protocol focused on hypertrophy. Repeaters are fine and often better for max hangs in the long run, but pinches are usually best trained on the wall. Mar 4, 2023 · Especially when we look at how many variables we have, and how much they overlap (physiological eigenvalues of max hang vs. repeaters vs. This means that you could warm up, do density hangs, rest, and do some sore of full body cardio/linger duration work or even light repeaters. Dec 6, 2022 · Max hangs tend to be more stressful because of the higher weight, but repeaters tend to have much more time under tension so they represent a much bigger overall stressor cumulatively. I measured my fingers in a four-finger open-hand position and in a half crimp. hangs work your anaerobic a-lactic. On the whole I've found I make better gains with long problems (e. between reps on the repeaters. Repeaters are better for hypertrophy, which a newer climber may benefit from--if you then transition to max hangs then you'll have more muscle to learn to recruit. The problem with comparing max hangs vs repeaters is what I noted before in this post. 5 sets = 20 min. Nov 28, 2012 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training Feb 15, 2019 · What is your rest time? A hangboard session shouldn't be more than 20 min. repeaters. One question: Are you referring to repeaters with 5-6x 7sec on / 3sec off with 70-80% maximum added weight? I know that many people - and also from anectodal evidence - that this protocol brings significant strength gains (measured with Max Hangs after protocol execution). In a power endurance phase, I'll do repeater hangs 6 on 6 off at 70% of my HB max (which is juuuust about my bodyweight) as many reps until I fail. I generally do 2 max a week interspersed with some limit climbing and a day of volume generally. I’m towards the end of a (not terribly useful) hang board cycle. 7 sec hang with 3 sec between = 1 rep 6 reps in a row = 1 set (1 min) rest for 3 min and repeat. Jan 4, 2021 · That being said, Max Hangs session intensity is based on your current ability, usually 85%-95% of your absolute max, and Eva Lopez's research also showed that Max Hangs produce significantly greater strength gains than repeaters in a 8 week period. Jan 12, 2023 · Those four metrics were: max hang (20 mm edge, 10 seconds), max weighted pull up, repeaters until failure (7 seconds on, 3 seconds off, measured in seconds including rests), and max number of pull ups. Hangboard or no hangs are like isolation exercises which work one specific factor. I have experience with max hangs, density hangs and in the past learned to I do the Lattice max hang protocol in the Crimpd app. (ahead of print in Journal of Human Kinetics). Most repeater sequences in the public domain are executed at bodyweight and at high volume—thus, training endurance far more than strength. Because Density hangs, repeaters and pinch block max hangs are just a bit much. But some well-conditioned climbers want a bit of variety in their hangboard training, and for that reason, we have max hangs. After that first cycle, switch to a different protocol. Thanks for this really detailed answer, think you might be right with the on the wall endurance training on the same day as max hangs Vs repeaters. Feb 19, 2024 · Unlike Max Hangs, Repeaters are executed with a reduced load but extended over longer periods to progressively fatigue the muscles throughout the course of a set, focusing on endurance. I was wondering if anyone has tried and had luck with these. What's the best way to add some endurance training in? 1 max hang and 1 repeater session each week? single session of 7:53 repeaters? Thanks! Feb 28, 2022 · Learn how Dr. It would be better to actually just make sure you are working say 3-5 pinch climbs every climbing session so you're forced to get better at them. You basically are building capacity to see gains in max strength during repeater phases, but need to recruit the new muscle fibers via max hangs to see the numbers go up. but this can be offset if the person doing max hangs does a longer session of climbing thereby getting more volume onto their fingers. 5lb or so. As route season comes along, I switch to 2 sets of the repeat/int-hang and 1 max/min edge day. her argument is that max-hangs are more of recruitment gains, and a In the past, I have started a new cycle with repeaters to build some strength before cycling through max hangs, no hangs or recruitment pulls (tried all three with similar effects over the years) then cycling back through repeaters again. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. How exactly to progress when doing max hangs? In the past i did some hangboarding and always hurt my fingers in some way. Examples of Max Strength exercises: Max hangs or lifts, hard bouldering. Repeaters: This workout emulates the experience of reaching for the next hold during a climb. Currently using this routine once a week: 5 max hangs, minute rest between each (haven't begun adding weight) for basal readings, followed by 3 sets of repeaters (10 sec x 7 reps). To be clear, I've read the more common fingerboarding studies but they all seem to be comparing consistent training protocols (repeaters vs min edge vs max hangs) rather than comparing a consistent protocol with a variable one. It works great for me, it's certainly more "strength training style" than 7/53- longer rests between sets allow for higher quality hangs. You could use max hangs and moon to build strength and power. theres a good powercompany podcast where eva lopez talks about the two main protocols - max hangs vs. Results from this session also provide an excellent baseline from which to calculate the intensities of other sessions, such as max hangs and 50% aerobic power repeaters. I started at 25lb and every time I completed 2 max hang sessions without failing, I added 2. For repeater sessions, as follows. I started doing density hangs for injury prevention and contact strength. max hangs] are just two possibilities of a large combination of sets/reps/grip/load/edge size combinations, there are many more out there that might be useful as well but are ignored because they are not part of a system or scheme. ” 1:02:59 – Clarification about progressing hangboard sessions 1:05:20 – How often should you use BFR? 1:07:03 – Repeaters vs. If you don’t have great walls for anaerobic capacity circuits then repeaters might be better than a moonboard since the moonboard is only a few moves. Feb 22, 2020 · In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different. I am considering doing one arm timed pulls with the Tindeq with the idea that it would be easier to get a true max "hang" since I am not limited by a fixed weight added to myself. Description of the hangs: Max hangs: 7-10 second holds, 2:30 to 3:00 min breaks, adding weight (if needed) to get failure within that time frame. Fingerboard twice a week Jun 13, 2023 · I have experience with max hangs, density hangs and in the past learned to fingerboard with sets of repeaters at work 5:rest 5 x 5 reps. Just finishing my max recruitment phase now and I feel pretty good. I tried to find some more information on the topic, but it seems like most protocols recommend 5-10s hangs and longer hangs are not often What are the advantages and disadvantages of max hangs vs longer hangs (40 seconds) vs longer workouts with less rest in between (7 second on 3 seconds off) for finger strength? Nov 21, 2022 · As with max hangs and repeaters, all sessions should be preceded by an initial testing day to determine maximum capacity. Would it be more beneficial to bail on the Nov 21, 2022 · Repeaters are one of the original and most popular fingerboard training methods because they closely mimic the grip-relax repeating sequence of climbing. I'm already doing circuits on the same day along with weighted pull ups and some free weights Always trying to balance maximising my time on the wall and reduced injuries while making gains (aren't we all I suppose). Repeaters work your anaerobic lactic energy system while max. If you want to make improvements (especially if you struggle with finger strength!) then you will have to be consistent with your methods. After 2-3 weeks of hangboarding something always started to hurt and that's why i gave it up. . The difference is max hangs teach your brain to recruit muscles while repeaters develop stronger tendons over time. What Are Max Hangs? Mar 16, 2019 · Cycling between these three protocols (e. In part one of this article, we’re going to guide you through the basics. I am a sport climber primarily, but I'd recommend density hangs for contact strength for bouldering if nothing else. I’m always looking for a way to increase my hand strength. Dec 6, 2022 · Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. More volume can be tolerated with low to moderate intensity much easier. I do most of my weighted hangs on a 15mm edge vs the 20-23mm edge. I was doing 7:3 repeaters before that and found them to be very effective, but quite a hard and long session compared to the max hangs sessions I do now. max hangs, and the four-burner stove 54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals I’d probably do maintenance repeaters or density hangs once per 7-10 days and switch the primary workout to max strength and power. The Anderson brothers’ “beginner” hangboard protocol has 50+ reps per workout. Pick a weight or edge width that will remain semi challenging for 4 weeks. 5 easy sets should include Hold 1 – Large jug Hold 2 – Small edge Hold 3 – Large edge Hold 4 – Medium edge Hold 5 – Sloper If all you do is one set every time you Aug 10, 2017 · - Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. So, to train for hypertrophy, why not simply do a longer max hang where failure is intended to occur after around 25-30 seconds, i Jul 15, 2016 · The multitude of finger training approaches includes fingerboard pyramids, max hangs, repeaters, encores and many more. Tenso hangboard protocol descriptionAs a general guideline, use a protocol for one cycle (4 to 8 weeks). Nov 15, 2006 · In an effort to mix up the 4 week lockdown hanging protocol, I am considering introducing these. If we added up all the correlation values for all 15 variables, we would have higher than 100 percent which indicates that a good portion of those values are, without a doubt, only showing correlation. Examples of Aerobic Capacity exercises: ARCing, low intensity climbing, easy long duration repeaters, squeezing an easy gripper. repeater data). seems to work, but I'm starting to think the specificity of these things is a min/max issue and probably accounts for an almost imperceptible amount of success. a combination. If you're only resting 53 seconds, any hangs beyond your first are not done in a decently recovered state. If you aren't hitting or getting near Feb 18, 2025 · Personally I'd consider alternating "base" phases (e. Aug 8, 2007 · I want to improve my strength/anaerobic capacity - fingerboard repeaters (7:3 x 6 = 1 set) seems to be an efficient and allegedly low risk way of doing so. Recruitment hangs are pulling as hard as possible for 3 seconds to teach your hands to engage more fibers more quickly. Add a week or two rest at the end of the peak phase. If you are after max hang like progress/goals (as opposed to repeaters, or "density hangs" or whatever else): Use an appropriate edge (20mm), and reduce or add weight and progressively add more over time (months, years) until it gets uncomfortable to add more or around 150% BW while completing the sessions at an easy/moderate level, then switch Jul 26, 2021 · 1:07:03 – Repeaters vs. Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. Jun 20, 2022 · Both plans incorporate max hangs into the bouldering workout days, and you do, at most, 10 min of max hangs (at most 10 hangs) on just one grip type. Statistically, max hangs apparently helps with boulderers more than repeaters. The goal of this workout across 8-10 workouts is to increase the number of reps I can do in each set before failure. Repeaters I’ll use my 20mm edge generally. Jan 11, 2025 · I thought that max hangs (few reps, high intensity) would equate to neurological recruitment whereas repeaters (more reps) would have more of a hypertrophy effect? If you aren’t attached to only doing max hangs, varying the style of hangs (density/repeaters/varied grip/etc) could be smart, and will give you more room to play with on the intensity vs volume scale. In this article we will highlight the general ways to perform two of the more popular protocols: repeaters and max hangs. uix mrpkp fhiyyj lonj qldhr otiri zikvi ynenkd doyn dyrcd